Dídac Medrano | Photojournalist

The black tide of Arbaeen

Forty days after the tenth day of the month of Muharram, called Ashura, millions of pilgrims walk to Karbala from different parts of Iraq or the Shia world (Iran, Pakistan, Yemen…) to honor the martyrdom of Imam Hussein, the grandson of Muhammad, killed on October 10th, 680 CE. Millions of pilgrims gather in Karbala (the holiest city of Shia Islam) fully dressed in black to celebrate his figure, in an incredible display of devotion and sacrifice. The Arbaeen is the second-biggest human migration in the planet, after the Chinese New Year, as it gathers up to 25.000.000 people every year, generally around the months of September or October.

This 2021 the Arbaeen has gathered fewer people than normal, but tens of millions were still there, despite some countries’ travel restrictions. Shia pilgrims unite in a mass pilgrimage that can take up to one week, depending on the starting point, walking under the heat of Iraq’s autumn Sun. Thousands of food stalls, watering points and accommodation tents organize around the scene as many volunteers help those who are doing the pilgrimage. During Arbaeen, Iraq changes completely: many households display flags depicting Imam Hussein; red, black and green banners are shown everywhere around the cities; holidays are decreed, and even the armed forces carry Imam Hussein’s symbology.

This is the story of 2021’s Arbaeen.

Shia pilgrims fully dressed in black exiting Hazrat al-Abbas Holy Shrine after finishing Arbaeen in Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano)
Shia pilgrims waiting outside of Imam Hussein Holy Shrine as they prepare to enter the last phase of the Arbaeen in Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
Shia pilgrim probably coming from Iran wears a big sign on her backpack depicting Qasem Soleimani as a martyr. Soleimani was a high-ranked Iranian general killed by the Americans in Baghdad airport at the beginning of 2020. He is often celebrated as a martyr in between some sectors of Shia muslims. (Dídac Medrano).
Shia pilgrims taking a rest while sharing some tea after having been walking for hours in the outskirts of Babylon city, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
A huge amount of pilgrims passing by at Imam Ali Holy Shrine in Najaf, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
One of the many fans situated in Imam Ali Holy Shrine to cool down the pilgrims in Najaf, Iraq. Temperatures during Arbaeen can sometimes exceed 40 º C despite being celebrated around the month of October. (Dídac Medrano)
A couple of young Shia pilgrims dressed in black and wearing a small backpack depicting the figure of Imam Hussein and its Holy Shrine in Najaf, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
Shia women walking together during Arbaeen in Najaf, Iraq, as they are fully covered in their black abaya. (Dídac Medrano).
Shia pilgrims walking together towards the Iraqi city of Karbala. Big religious banners are widely displayed around the pilgrimage, mostly in green, red and black. (Dídac Medrano).
Two Iraqi shia pilgrims get back home after finishing Arbaeen (Karbala, Iraq / Dídac Medrano).
Two Iraqi shia pilgrims get back home after finishing Arbaeen in Karbala, Iraq (Dídac Medrano).
One of the many water-giving stands scattered around the pilgrimage, as high temperatures are common and big physical efforts are done by the pilgrims. Water and food is free as provided by many volunteers who want to show support and respect to their fellow pilgrims. (Dídac Medrano).
Shia pilgrims walking under an extreme heat outside Imam Hussein Holy Shrine in Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
One of the many pilgrims carrying big banners honoring Imam Hussein in Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
Another pilgrim wears a big green banner outside Imam Hussein Holy Shrine in Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
A Shia pilgrim walks towards his tent where he is going to spend the night alongside other pilgrims in Karbala, Iraq, while a giant flag that says ”Imam Hussein” waves in front of him. (Dídac Medrano).
Shia pilgrims waiting to cross a checkpoint of the Popular Mobilization Forces (PMF), the biggest pro-Iranian militia organization in Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano)
Pilgrims walk across a sign aiming to raise funds for the Yemeni people: ”Donate to the people of Yemen”. There is also a huge percentage of Shia muslims in Yemen, mostly from the Zaydi branch. (Dídac Medrano)
Two pilgrims dressed in their abaya standing next to a resting point where the picture of Imam Hussein and scenes of the Battle of Karbala can be seen: ”The place of Imam Hussein”. (Dídac Medrano).
Young pilgrims carrying an old pilgrim in a wooden cart, as it can be extremely exhausting for elderly people. (Dídac Medrano).
People separated according to sex standards wait in a long queque on a food stand. (Dídac Medrano).
A man fully dressed in black prepares tea for the hundreds of thousands of pilgrims that are passing by in Karbala at the end of the pilgrimage. (Dídac Medrano)

Traditional quzi served in a takeaway manner as many hungry pilgrims arrive at the scene in Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
Iraqi flags depicting ”Allahu’akbar” (Allah is great) inside a hotel in Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
Pilgrims exiting Imam al-Ali mosque during Arbaeen in Najaf, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano)
An Iraqi man washes his face in the kitchen of Ayatollah Khomeini’s house in Najaf, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
Shia pilgrim wearing a backpack with Imam Hussein’s picture walks to the transport that is going to take him home after finishing Arbaeen in Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
A long line of pilgrims fully covered in black walking next to a market in the outskirts of Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).
An elderly Shia pilgrim walks the last kilometers to Karbala as she prepares to finish the Arbaeen in nearby Karbala, Iraq. (Dídac Medrano).

Deja una respuesta

Tu dirección de correo electrónico no será publicada. Los campos obligatorios están marcados con *